In my opinion, when it comes to travel, you should always, always stay somewhere for at least as long as it took to get there, especially if it’s halfway across the world. You must make the effort worthwhile! Considering that I had 19 hours of transit ahead of me, I decided to plan my three-week trip to Japan so that, as a visitor to the country of rising suns, I could see all the major attractions.
Here is my three-week itinerary, which included everything from Edo-era castles to metropolises, from shogun villages to famous volcanoes, and from serene temples to unexpected wildlife.
Tokyo // Four days
It only made sense to spend a brief time in the Japanese capital, Narita, as the majority of flights land there. Besides, it’s the kind of megacity you have to be in to completely appreciate its immense size and importance. Even though Tokyo is fascinating, I didn’t want to spend too much time there because I wanted to see as much as I could.
No matter how much or how little time I spent in Tokyo, I would never skip drinks at the New York Bar on top of the famous Park Hyatt. It’s well worth the money and the ideal way to end (or start!) this incredible journey through Japan. They filmed Lost in Translation here.
Useful tip: if money is tight, avoid paying the exorbitant costs for the observation deck and instead visit Sky Tree East Tower, where you may enter the 31st level for free. It’s not quite as high, but it’s still stunning (see the city view photo above).
Where I stayed in Tokyo
Tokyo’s Millennium Mitsui Garden Hotel
Day outings and guided tours of Tokyo:
Antiquated and sentimental Yanaka walking tour in Tokyo
Experience of samurai
Kaiseki course dinner and a geisha experience
A tour of the Tsukiji fish market that includes a sushi-making class
NIKKO // One day
Temple of Nikko
The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Toshogu Shrine, built in 1617 to honor Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founding ruler of the Tokugawa shogunate and ultimate feudal military government, is one of the most well-known and respected shrines in the nation. The small city of Nikko is situated in the Tochigi Prefecture, a mountainous region north of Tokyo. Although it’s a long journey on any normal Japan itinerary, the trip is well worth it.
Here, vermillion gates are sporadically scattered over lush woodlands with endless rows of stone lanterns. One of the most well-liked day trips from Tokyo, this incredibly majestic and spiritual location allows overnight stays.
My lodging in Nikko
Hotel Okunoin in Tokugawa
Day tours to Nikko
Nikko Toshogu Shrine birding and a morning trek
MOUNT FUJI // One day
Fuji-san
The magnificent mountain, just outside of Tokyo, is a well-liked day trip destination in the region. Rightfully so, the 12,389-foot-tall stratovolcano is Japan’s highest peak and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is also a Special Place of Scenic Beauty, which is an excellent link to bookmark if you want to see some of Japan’s most beautiful views.
Sitting on the right side of the shinkansen as it travels between Tokyo and Kyoto is the simplest and most economical way to take in Fujisan. About 45 minutes into the trip, the mountain majestically rises into view.
Mount Fuji day tours
If you want to visit Mount Fuji on your own, be aware that trekking routes are only officially available in July and August. Several tour companies provide day tours to the revered mountain. Local priests can also help you schedule this Mount Fuji VIP experience.
KYOTO // 5 days
Kyoto is home to an amazing number of temples and palaces, as well as convenient side trips via the Tokaido Shinkansen line and a plethora of delectable dining options to satisfy your appetite. Speaking of which, it is convenient to visit all of the notable temples in a single day because they are all situated in the same vicinity, northwest of the major train station. I am referring specifically to the temples of Kinkakuji (the Golden Temple), Ryoanji, and Toji-in.
Other enjoyable activities in Kyoto? Philosopher’s Walk, Ginkakuji (the Silver Pavilion), Toji Temple (which is actually a whole distinct temple), Arashiyama (bamboo grove, monkey park, and amazing trekking chances), and Higashiyama old area.
A helpful advice is to carry socks if you intend to wear sandals or go commando in your shoes. In Japan, you are not allowed to enter temples barefoot or with shoes on.
In addition, a side remark on maikos and geishas in Gion: always show respect to geishas you meet. In recent years, several geishas have complained that tourists behave like cruel paparazzi. If you want to take a picture of them, just ask. Don’t be that person, please!
The Hotel Granvia in Kyoto is where I stayed. Kyoto
Day outings and guided tours of Kyoto:
Full-day sightseeing tour in Kyoto
Nijo Castle, Golden Pavilion, and Imperial Palace of Kyoto
Samurai school
Private bamboo tour in Arashiyama and Sagano with a nationally certified guide
All-inclusive local restaurants and streets at night in Gion and beyond
Hidden hiking excursion in Fushimi Inari
Kyoto’s traditional tea ritual in a kimono
Class on Izakaya cooking
NARA // One day
A Buddha standing sixteen meters tall
It simply fulfilled every expectation you may have about a country like Japan: adorable animals, maikos dressed in wareshinobu, massive Buddhist temples, and ethereal landscapes. Here, in this little city outside of Kyoto, I discovered all of that. Nara is a worthwhile day excursion from the old city, even if it is a destination unto itself (there are a few motels close to the train station). As the country’s first permanent capital in 710, it is home to more than eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, ranking second only to Kyoto in terms of Japan’s cultural legacy.
Activities in Nara
Despite being the largest wooden structure in the world, Tōdai-ji is actually only two-thirds of its estimated original size. It houses the Great Buddha, which is quite impressive considering its 16-meter height and 437-ton bronze weight.
Temple of Horyuji
The kind, ravenous, and endearing deer in Nara Park
Day tours from Kyoto to Nara
Highlights of Biking in Nara
Walking tour of Nara’s specialty beer and sake
HIMEJI // One day
Castle Himeji
I must admit that I did not enter Himeji Castle. Unbeknownst to me, I arrived two days after the castle had reopened after extensive renovations, and to be honest, I didn’t enjoy the three-hour line. Knowing that I would be seeing another amazing castle later in the week, I chose to limit myself to the flowery gardens.
The Daiwa Roynet Hotel Himeji is where I stayed.
Himeji day outings Himeji full-day private tour with a guide who is licensed nationally
HIROSHIMA // One day
It is impossible to arrange a trip to Japan or travel down the southern coast of Honshu Island without stopping in Hiroshima. Despite being completely destroyed by an atomic bomb during World War II, which was ironically called Little Boy, Hiroshima is again a vibrant metropolis. Two significant landmarks related to Hiroshima’s historical legacy, Hiroshima Castle and Shukkeien Garden, were devastated during the bombing but were later rebuilt and are now open for tours.
Since just the skeleton of the former Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall building is left, the UNESCO A-Bomb Dome serves as a stark emblem of Hiroshima’s newfound peace. Located nearby is the verdant and green Peace Memorial Park, which honors those who perished on that sad day in 1945 and was constructed over the former business district.
Hiroshima day outings & guided tours: Peaceful cycling tour around Hiroshima with a local guide
Bar-hopping food tour in Hiroshima
MIYAJIMA // One day
Shrine of Itsukushima
The charming island of Miyajima, which is home to the famous Itsukushima Temple, is located nearly directly across the harbor from Hiroshima. Unquestionably its most famous feature is the daring Itsukushima Shrine, which rises 16 meters out of the ocean in a dramatic fashion; in popular culture, it is frequently referred to as a “floating torii gate.” It’s interesting to note that at low tide, you can walk directly up to the temple, which is why I strongly advise staying on Miyajima for the entire day.
In addition to the shrine, Miyajima offers a number of thrilling hiking routes, particularly in the vicinity of Mount Misen. Try Shishiiwa Observatory, which is only reachable by cable car, offers breathtaking views with no physical exertion.
Miyajima day outings and guided tours: Experience the traditional tea ceremony in Miyajima while donning kimonos
See Itsukushima Shrine, a World Heritage Site, via boat.
KANAZAWA // One day
Because of Kanazawa’s renownedly intact history from the Edo Period, when it was home to the influential Maeda feudal Clan, I decided to travel there. In terms of rice output and fief sizes, it was among the richest clans; nonetheless, enormous power also carries significant dangers. As a result, the Maeda clan hired a number of samurai and gave them land in Nagamachi District at the base of Kanazawa Castle, which is still open for tours today.
Both Higashi Chaya District, which is home to numerous historic wooden teahouses where geishas perform and work, and Kenrokuen, Japan’s most renowned landscape park, are well worth a few hours of exploration.
Kanazawa hotels
KANAZAWA’s The Square Hotel
Two-day Japanese alps
The final few days of this Japan itinerary will be spent in the Japanese Alps, where I hope to spend time with snow monkeys and have a traditional supper at a ryokan with an onsen.
It went perfectly, and despite my fear of making a cultural blunder, I survived and came away from my stay in the Nagano prefecture feeling much more grateful.
Day outings and guided tours of the Janapese Alps: All-day exploration of the snow monkeys, Zenko-ji Temple, and sake in Nagano
With a local guide, explore Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park.
The Nagano overnight stay at Ryokan and a private two-day trip with a guide
MATSUMOTO // One day
Castle Matsumoto
The major reason for taking this rather underappreciated detour on the Japan itinerary was to see Matsumoto Castle, a magnificent piece of art and one of Japan’s most important historic castles. Because it still has the original masonry and timber interiors, its value is just immeasurable. With its many hidden corridors, steep, dangerous steps, and other secrets that only samurais knew, the castle offered a very intriguing look into Japan’s military history. Compared to Himeji, which was far too crowded, I believe I had a far better and more educational experience at Matsumoto.
Accommodations in Matsumoto
Kagetsu’s Matsumoto Hotel
Day outings and guided tours in Matsumoto
Half-day private tour of Matsumoto
Walking tour of Matsumoto Castle, Sake, Food, and Craft Beer
Samurai experience and tour of Matsumoto Castle
The Alps of Japan Day walk from Matsumoto to Kamikochi
